Grooming your dog

The general condition of your dog’s skin and coat are good indicators of his health. The primary influence on your dog’s coat and skin health is nutrition: a complete balanced diet with micronutrients specific to skin and coat health will give optimal shine and texture. Underlying health conditions will also affect coat quality. Regular grooming and skin care will help keep your dog’s coat clean and free of tangles, no matter what type of hair coat.

Hair coat types

Thanks to hundreds of years of selective breeding, there are huge varieties of hair coats seen in domestic dogs. These of course have different grooming needs. Some breeds have hair that grows continuously and does not shed. These breeds require regular trips to the ‘doggy salon’ for a shampoo and cut. Breeds such as Siberian Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes, and Retrievers have long, thick hair coats with both an outer coat of guard hairs and an undercoat of fine hair that serves as an insulating layer. These breeds often go through two heavy seasonal shedding cycles of 3-5 weeks per year, during which much of the undercoat falls out in clumps. Many short-haired breeds lack a distinctive undercoat and these breeds often shed hair in low levels all year round.

Frequency of grooming

All dogs benefit from regular brushing to remove loose hairs and dead skin cells, to keep the coat free of dirt, debris and to distribute natural skin oils along the hair shafts. Dogs with long silky coats require daily brushing to stop tangles or matting, especially around the ears, armpits, or along the back of the legs. Dogs with short hair coats need less frequent brushing.

Daily brushing will dramatically cut down on the amount of loose hair and dander floating around the home. For some people with mild dog allergies, daily brushing may reduce airborne allergens enough that they can share their home with a dog.

Regardless of the type of hair coat, by inspecting your dog’s coat every day you will find any tangles, clumps, or unusual lumps or bumps in the skin. Areas to pay particular attention to are behind the ears, groin and armpits, especially after a romp through the grass or in the woods.

What type of brush or comb should I use? 

Different styles of brush work better on certain types of hair coats. Slicker brushes work well for dogs such as Poodles, with curly non-shedding coats, while combs or stiff bristle brushes are good for dogs with medium length hair that sheds, such as Retrievers. Brushes with short bristles or flexible grooming gloves are good for smooth-coated dogs such as Pointers or Boxer Dogs. Long-toothed combs, especially ones made with several offset rows, are good for use in dogs with long hair, such as Collies; these combs are also useful for removing tangled clumps of hair or for removing clumps of loose undercoat hair when your dog is undergoing a seasonal shedding.

Your groomer will have specific recommendations for a grooming tool that will work particularly well for your dog’s type of coat. Whatever the choice of brush you use, it is important to be gentle when using it and to avoid excessive pulling on tangles.

Removing tangles, mats and burs

Small tangles, burrs or grass awns can generally be removed with gentle brushing. However, larger or more extensive tangles or matts may need to be cut out. If this is the case, be extremely careful you do not cut the dog’s skin. Dog skin is delicate and can easily be unwittingly snipped along with the matt. When tangles are severe or extensive, it is strongly recommended that you seek professional help from a groomer or your veterinarian.

If you are planning on bathing your dog, make sure that you remove as many burrs or tangles from the coat beforehand, as they are almost impossible to remove after a bath.

Bathing your dog

Most dogs require bathing occasionally, usually when their coat becomes dirty or when they smell ‘doggy’. Non-shedding breeds that have no health issues usually need to be bathed about every six to eight weeks. Dogs that have a heavy undercoat will benefit from bathing in the spring or fall, when they are undergoing their seasonal shedding.

How often your individual dog needs to be bathed will vary somewhat with its age, lifestyle, type of hair coat, and underlying health. If you have a young puppy that is just being house-trained and he accidentally soils himself, he should be bathed immediately. A dog that enjoys running through puddles, jumping into water or rolling in fox poop will need regular bathing. Finally, if your dog has allergies, your veterinarian may prescribe frequent bathing as part of the treatment regime.

If you find that your dog requires frequent bathing, discuss this with your veterinarian who may recommend the use of a special shampoo, conditioning rinse or ‘dry shampoo’ to prevent skin problems associated with the repeated baths.

Which shampoo

Dogs should only be bathed in a shampoo that is formulated for use on dogs – their skin has a different pH (acidity) than human skin. Human shampoo, including baby shampoo, is far too harsh for their skin. For regular bathing, a hypoallergenic shampoo without any added perfumes is the best choice.

How should I bathe my dog?

You should always bathe your dog in warm water, partly for the comfort of the dog and partly for maximal shampoo efficacy. Depending on the dog’s size, you may find you can bathe him in the laundry tub or the bathtub or even in a walk-in shower. Washing dogs under the garden hose, using cold water, is not recommended, and is often the reason why dogs dislike being bathed.

After you have applied the shampoo, work it through the entire coat to remove all dirt and debris. It is best to dilute the shampoo first; you will find it easier to work through and rinse out of long or thick coats. For routine bathing, you can rinse the shampoo out right away, but if you are using a medicated shampoo, it may have to sit on the coat for 5-10 minutes before being rinsed out. Make sure you read the instructions on the shampoo label for the specific product that you are using or follow your veterinarian’s directions if you are using a medicated shampoo.

After complete rinsing of the shampoo, a conditioner should be applied afterwards to restore any lost moisture to the skin and reduce dandruff development after the bath. Again, this should be dog specific.

Summer shaving

Dogs with long hair may be more comfortable if their coat is cut short for the summer, depending on the circumstances. If you do cut your dog’s haircoat, it is important to leave at least 1” (2.5 cm) of haircoat on your dog to avoid sunburn or sun damage to the skin.

There is debate as to whether dogs with a double dense hair coat such as huskies should be shaved in summer. Their special coat not only keeps them warm in cold conditions but also helps to insulate them from the sun’s heat in summer. The husky’s skin has no pigmentation so is particularly susceptible to sun damage: shaving these dogs can do more harm than good. Instead ensure they are well brushed to remove any shed hairs and avoid mats- this allows air to circulate through the undercoat and regulate temperature.

Other recommendations

A dog’s coat appearance may be the first indicator of health or nutritional problems. If your dog’s coat has changed or is lacklustre, these factors should be addressed before reaching for a different shampoo bottle. A healthy animal will not shed excessively and will have a shiny coat that is free from dandruff or greasiness. If you have any concerns, contact your veterinarian for a consultation.

ROYAL CANIN® diets are formulated with high quality proteins, specific amino acids and an exclusive complex of micronutrients to maintain healthy hair growth, skin renewal and support skin barrier function. ROYAL CANIN® Breed diets include micronutrients specifically adapted for the skin and coat type of your dog, for optimum health and beauty.

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Postdate: 17th Sep 2020